Copyright statement – Alina Owais © July 2021
This pattern is property of Alina Owais. It is copyrighted, and is for personal use only. No part of this pattern may be reproduced, transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, may not be translated, reproduced or circulated in another language without the written permission of the author. You can crochet for yourself, for a gift or for charity. You may sell the finished product made from this pattern with credit to the author.
Contents
Copyright statement – Alina Owais © July 2021 Materials used Gauge Dimensions Abbreviations How to read the pattern Stitches and techniques Linked half double crochet (Lhdc) Linked half double crochet two together (Lhdc2tog) Instructions The s (make 2) The side and straps The cord The stopper Assembly and Discover other patterns that you might like
Materials used
Crochet hook: - 4.5 mm (7) hook - 3.5 mm (US E4) hook (for the cord) Yarn: - Six Balls of KATIA Scuby Soft (100 g/3 Oz; 80 m/87 yds); 100% Polyester; Color 304 – Lilac. - One Ball of KATIA Scuby Soft (100 g/3 Oz; 80 m/87 yds); 100% Polyester; Color 308 - Gold. Other: - scissor, tapestry needle, measuring tape or ruler, 3 buttons.
Gauge
10 x 10 cm (4 x 4 in) = 19 st x 16 rows
Dimensions
Width (opened) – approx. 38 cm / 14.96 in Height (without handles) – approx. 25 cm / 9.84 in Depth– approx. 12 cm/ 4.72 in
Abbreviations
bl – back loop ch(s) – chain(s) hdc – half double crochet Lhdc – linked half double crochet Lhdc2tog – linked half double crochet 2 together rs – right side sc – single crochet sk – skip sl st – slip stitch st(s) – stitch(es) ws – wrong side yo – yarn over
How to read the pattern
Each step is separated by a comma. Ch1 and ch2 at the beginning of every row doesn’t count as a st unless specified otherwise. When there is a stitch followed by a number, that number of stitches needs to be worked in the same stitch. Example: "Lhdc2" it means that you have to crochet 2 Lhdc into the same stitch (increase). When there is a number followed by a stitch, that stitch needs to be worked over that number of stitches. Example: “6Lhdc” it means that you have to crochet 1 Lhdc in each of the next 6 sts. Where there are () in the pattern, work everything as a set, as many times as indicated. Example: (13Lhdc, Lhdc3) x 3 times, it means that you have to repeat the set between the () as indicated in the pattern. The rows with “holes” will create the holes for the cord and buttons. The numbers in the () at the end of each round/row is the total number of stitches in that round/row. These numbers are there just to check your work.
Stitches and techniques
Linked half double crochet (Lhdc)
Lhdc: the first Lhdc is made by ch2, insert the hook into the 2nd ch, yo and pull up a loop (fig. 1) insert the hook into the first st, yo and pull up a loop (fig. 2), yo and draw through all three loops on hook (fig. 3); the rest of the Lhdc are made by inserting the hook into the middle loop of the previous Lhdc (fig. 4), yo and pull up a loop, insert the hook into the next st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and draw through all loops on hook. For the video click the following link: https://youtu.be/Az-WnmRW88Q Lhdc on the rs – work into the 2nd (back loop) and into the 3rd loop/back ridge. For the video click the following link: https://youtu.be/LZ1Bxu-uq_I Lhdc on the ws – work into the 3rd loop/back ridge and into the top loop. For the video click the following link: https://youtu.be/lqnxjOy3wK0
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Linked half double crochet two together (Lhdc2tog)
Insert the hook into the middle line (fig. 5), yo and pull through, insert the hook into the 2nd and 3rd loop (for the right side) / 3rd and 2nd loops (for the wrong side), yo and pull loop through (3 loops on hook) (fig. 6), yo and pull through first 2 loops on the hook (fig. 7), insert the hook into the first loop next to the hook (fig. 8, 9), insert the hook into the next 3rd and 2nd loops, yo and pull up a loop (fig. 10), yo and pull the yarn through all 4 loops on hook (fig. 11). For the video click the following link: https://youtu.be/4APZz1I5YO4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
Fig. 7
F ig. 8
Fig. 9
Fig. 10
Fig 11
Instructions
The s (make 2)
Row 1 (rs) – ch24, starting from the 3rd ch from hook make 21Lhdc, Lhdc3 into the last st and continue on the other side of the ch, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (45 sts) Row 2 (ws) – 21Lhdc, Lhdc2 into the next 3 sts, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (48 sts) Row 3 – 21Lhdc, (1Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (51 sts) Row 4 (cord holes) – 2Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc,16Lhdc, (2Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 17Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 1Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (54 sts) Row 5 – 2Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 17Lhdc, (3Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 17Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 2Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (57 sts) Row 6 – 21Lhdc, (4Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (60 sts) Row 7 – 21Lhdc, (5Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (63 sts) Row 8 – 21Lhdc, (6Lhdc. Lhdc2) x 3 times, ch2 and turn. (66 sts) Row 9 – 25Lhdc, Lhdc2, (7Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 24Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (69 sts) Row 10 – 23Lhdc, Lhdc2, (8Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 26Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (72 sts) Row 11 (cord holes) – 2Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 16Lhdc, (9Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 17Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 1Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (75 sts) Row 12 – 2Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 22Lhdc, Lhdc2, (10Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 22Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 2Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (78 sts) Row 13 – 21Lhdc, (Lhdc2, 11Lhdc) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (81 sts)
Row 14 – 28Lhdc, Lhdc2, (12Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 26Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (84 sts) Row 15 – 21Lhdc, (13Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (87 sts) Row 16 – 21Lhdc, (14Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 21Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (90 sts) Row 17 – 29Lhdc, Lhdc2, (15Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 28Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (93 sts) Row 18 (cord holes) – 2Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 16Lhdc, (16Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 3 times, 17Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 1Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (96 sts) Row 19 – 2Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 17Lhdc, (17Lhdc, Lhdc 2) x 3 times, 17Lhdc, Lhdc into the 2 chs, 2Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (99 sts) Row 20 – 26Lhdc, Lhdc2, (18Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 34Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (102 sts) Row 21 – 30Lhdc, Lhdc2, (19Lhdc, Lhdc2) x 2 times, 31Lhdc (205 sts), ch1 and continue working along the top border, making a sc in every row sp, sl st into the first Lhdc. Cut the yarn, fasten off and wave in all ends.
The side and straps
The side and the straps are worked together in one piece Row 1 – ch109, starting from the 3rd ch from the hook Lhdc in every ch until the end, ch2 and turn. (107 sts) Row 2 – Lhdc2 into the first st, 105Lhdc, Lhdc2 into the last st, ch2 and turn. (109 sts) Row 3 – Lhdc2, 107Lhdc, Lhdc2, ch2 and turn. (111 sts) Row 4 (cord holes) – Lhdc2, 4Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 96Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 3Lhdc, Lhdc2, ch 152 and turn – this is the long strap. (263 sts) Row 5 – sk 2 ch, Lhdc in every ch and in every st until the end of the row, drop the yarn (do not cut it, we will continue working with it), a 150 cm/59 in long new yarn into the turning ch of the previous row and make 45 chs, cut the yarn fasten off – this is the short strap; return to the dropped yarn, pick up the loop and continue Lhdc in every ch, ch2 and turn. (308 sts) Row 6 (buttonholes) – 267Lhdc, (ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 9Lhdc) x 3 times, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 2 Lhdc, ch2 and turn. (308 sts) Row 7 – Lhdc in every st and ch sp until the end of the row. Cut the yarn and fasten off. (308 sts) Row 8 (cord holes) – turn the work and new yarn into the 46th st (skip the 45 strap sts), ch2, Lhdc2tog, 4Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 96Lhdc, ch2 and sk2 sts, 1hdc, 3Lhdc, Lhdc2tog (skip the 150 strap sts), ch2 and turn. (111 sts) Row 9 – Lhdc2tog, 107Lhdc, Lhdc2tog, ch2 and turn. (109 sts) Row 10 – Lhdc2tog, 105Lhdc, Lhdc2tog, ch2 and turn. (107 sts)
Row 11 – Lhdc until the end of the row (107 sts), ch1, sc in every row space along the border (4sc), sl st into the bl of every st of the strap (45 sl st), ch1 at the end of the row, sc in every row sp (3sc), ch1 and continue sl st on the other side of the strap. Repeat the process until the end of the row 11, cut the yarn, fasten off and wave in all ends.
The cord
To make the cord we use the US E4/3.5 mm hook. Step 1 - ch2, insert the hook into the 2nd ch, yo and pull up a loop (two loops on hook, fig. 12), Step 2 - ch1 through the first loop on hook, drop the worked ch and hold it with your fingers (fig. 13), ch1 through the remaining loop on hook (fig. 14) and pick up the dropped ch (two loops on hook fig. 15). Repeat Step 2 until the cord reaches 82cm. Finish the cord by ing the yarn through both loops on hook, cut the yarn and fasten off.
Fig. 12
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
Fig. 15
The stopper
Ch11, starting from the 2nd ch from hook, sc until the end of the row (10 sts), with sl st, ch1 and make another row of sc, with sl st, cut the yarn and wave in all ends and sew the piece in the middle. This way you create 2 holes to insert the cord to close the bag.
Assembly
Crochet the pieces together: insert the hook into the exterior loop of the side (fig. 16) and into the exterior loop of one (fig. 17), new yarn and sl st through both loops on hook (fig. 18). Insert the hook into the next exterior loop of the side and into the next exterior loop of one (fig. 19) and sl st through all 3 loops on hook (fig. 20). Continue along until the end of the . Do the same with the other . Cut the yarn and wave in all ends.
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
Fig. 18
Fig. 19
Fig. 20 Sew the buttons on the short strap: starting with the first button at the 4th st from the top of the strap. The 2nd and 3rd buttons are sewed in the 11th st from the previews button. Thread the cord through the holes starting from the side. Pull one end of the cord from the exterior to the interior of the bag, ing through the s. After the last hole, both cord ends are on the outside. Insert the cord ends through the stopper, tie a knot to the cord ends to secure the stopper (fig. 21) and enjoy you beautiful crocheted bag!
Fig. 21
and
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„Bucket Bag” by Alina Owais © July 2021 - All rights reserved. For personal use only.
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