Trekking The Mount Everest Trail 30w3l

Copyright © 2012 by Karen Cox Gray. 123860-GRAY Library of Congress Control Number: PENDING ISBN: Softcover 978-1-4797-3330-9 Hardcover 978-1-4797-3331-6 Ebook 978-1-4797-3332-3

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A longed desired trip to see Mount Everest in Nepal became the event of a lifetime for two Midwesterners whose mountain hiking preparation was minimal. This photographic memoir is compiled in homage to the inspiration that carried two neophytes to 17,000 feet on the slopes of the world’s tallest mountain.

In dreams, we’ll always be together,

Beneath a moonlit sky.

We mustn’t say goodbye.

Each night, I’ll push aside the mountains,

I’ll drain the ocean dry.

We mustn’t say goodbye.

Oh, don’t you know,

The memories we gathered can never, never die.

We mustn’t say goodbye.

We Mustn’t Say Goodbye. Al Durbin, Lyrics

1943

Travel to the Mount Everest region of Nepal begins with a Royal Nepalese Airlines flight to Lukla, at over 9,000 feet high in the Himalayan mountain range. The airstrip is primitive and a horn must be sounded to clear the area of grazing yaks before a plane can land.

Because the landing at Lukla airstrip is so thrilling, Royal Nepalese Airline pilots allowed engers to stand up and move to the front of the plane to take photographs of the runway far below in the midst of the tall mountains.

Once our trekking group landed, it was time to meet our Sherpas who would guide us through the mountain trails. Our American leader, Scott, is in the middle of the group. His responsibility is to plan our daily schedule and see to the well-being of all the trekkers. Ang Dawa Sherpa, at Scott’s left in the red jacket, is our group Sirdar or Head Sherpa. His responsibility is to assure that we are well fed and that our tents are securely erected and to supervise the other Sherpas as they carry out their assigned tasks.

After a quick lunch prepared by our Sherpas, it was time to start on the trail to Phakding, our first stop. We camped for the night next to the Dudh Kosi (milk river.) There the soothing sounds of water running over rocks lulled us to sleep.

We were awakened in our tent by a welcome cup of hot tea served by one of our Sherpa guides. After a quick breakfast, we were on the trail early before the sun had risen above the mountains. It would be a long day of hiking; our destination was Namche Bazaar nestled on the side of a mountain at over 11,000 feet.

The trail to Namche Bazaar was long and steep. It was necessary to take many rest stops for the air was thin and breathing became more difficult as we ascended. It took us many hours to arrive at our destination for the two of us were the slowest of our trekking group. What joy to find our Sherpas had arrived at our camping grounds with our red tents ready and tea and cookies at hand.

Namche Bazaar is population center for the surrounding Solukhumbu District. On Saturday mornings, a weekly market is held which attracts many people who trade in goods and livestock. We stayed in Namche Bazaar for three days to learn more about the Sherpa culture and to acclimate for our hike to higher elevation.

Our Sherpas arranged for yaks to carry our food, water, tents and other supplies higher in the mountains. We would encounter many yaks up and down the trail carrying supplies of every description. On several evenings, our Sherpas prepared yak stew for our dinner.

We walked around and about Namche Bazaar meeting other trekkers and greeting the residents of this unique place. We took tea and ate curried potatoes in the rest homes of this small town.

Waving goodbye, the children of Namche Bazaar wished us good fortune as we returned to the Mount Everest trail rested and ready for our next adventure.

Along our path upward, we encountered many Sherpa families who opened their homes to weary trekkers for a night’s lodging, a filling meal of dal bhat (rice and vegetable curry), or a drink of refreshing, “Sherpa Butter Tea” provided at a low cost.

Though gasping for air as we climbed ever higher, our spirits were uplifted by the magnificent views of mountains on every side of our path.

Our destination was the magnificent Thyangboche Monastery nestled below Mt. Ama Dablam. We were overjoyed to see that a tiny portion of the peak of Mount Everest was visible just behind the ridge wall of Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Nuptse.

What luck! We arrived at Thyangboche Monastery as the Mani Rimdu Festival was beginning. Mani Rimdu is a Buddhist dance festival of spiritual and meditation ceremonies. Many Sherpas from the surrounding communities arrived to take part in this important annual event.

Our small group of American trekkers was blessed by the Rinpoche (Tibetan Lama) after we watched the Mask Dances appreciating the skill and artistry of the dancers. That night, as we dozed in our tents, we were serenaded by the haunting sound of the long horns of the Mani Rimdu Festival.

Our early morning start from Thyangboche Monastery featured mountain peaks obscured by clouds. But the view of the Dudh Kosi far below gave us confidence when we realized how far we had trekked.

Our next destination was Pheriche at over 14,000 feet. The climbing was challenging and breathing was difficult. Located at Pheriche is the headquarters of the Himalayan Rescue Association whose staff offers aid to those with altitude and acclimatization problems. One member of our trekking group received much needed help here.

When our spirits flagged and our bodies felt weak, a look above to the towering peak of Mount Everest restored our will to continue upward.

We camped at Gorak Shep inside the Sagarmatha National Park located at 17,000 feet. Sleeping was impossible for us because of the thin air. We spent the night inside our red tent huddled in our sleeping bags looking out at the stars so very close.

Time for one last lunch at Gorak Shep with our stalwart trekking group. The air was cold and breathing was difficult but our faithful Sherpas prepared a warming meal of hot, vegetable stew.

For us, Gorak Shep was the highest point of our trek. We had reached the limit of our endurance and fitness for high altitude trekking. But, oh, the views! It was the fulfillment of a lifetime’s dreaming about Mount Everest.

It was time to retreat from the high ground trudging ever downward on the narrow path. Our thoughts were filled with the wonder of high Himalayan Mountains.

Tadji, a very kind Sherpani, agreed to be our personal guide downward to Namche Bazaar. With Tadji, we were able to trek at our own pace and walk along paths not used on our way upward. Tadji arranged for our overnight stays in guest houses, a welcome alternative to the red tents. She also saw that we had nourishing food; more curried potatoes and soup.

Walking along the well-worn paths, we began to see scruffy trees and we knew we were nearing Namche Bazaar.

A surprise awaited us in Namche Bazaar for that village was entirely covered by snow. The brilliant mountain sun soon disposed of the winter wonderland as we watched from the windows of our guest house.

We reed our group of trekkers in Lukla; each one of us filled with memories of our mountain adventures and gratitude for our steadfast and knowledgeable guides.

We would never forget the friendliness and welcoming spirit of the Sherpas of the Khumbu and the many delightful children we met.

NAMASTE