Manresa By David Kinch With Christine Muhlke- Recipes 4x82n

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contents foreword by Eric Ripert 1 introduction 3 how to use this book 7 chapter one How I met Cynthia Sandberg 9 chapter two An homage to an egg 49 chapter three An edible reflection 71 chapter four To renew 101 chapter five The Pacific as muse 129 chapter six Building a dish: 1, 2, 3 163 chapter seven Building a menu 191 chapter eight Creativity and technology 251 chapter nine Bar and cellar 289 epilogue by Charles Bowden 305 glossary of and techniques 310 the illustrated farm 312 sources 316 acknowledgments 318 index 320

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Delicate milk skins remind me of mozzarella. After we make them, we brush them with a little bit of cream for hydration, so what you experience is a solid, soft, curdlike sheet of dairy goodness. You can even use them in savory applications (see Abalone with Pig’s Feet, Avocado, Milk Skin, page 158). If you have any syrup left over from the confit, it’s delicious drizzled over vanilla ice cream.

fig and wild fennel confit, milk and hone y serves 8 to 10

| Fig and Wild Fennel Confit |

| Milk Skins |

12 to 15 Candy Stripe figs

Approximately 500 grams (2 cups) whole milk

1 (750-milliliter) bottle dry white wine, medium bodied, fruity, without oak

Approximately 30 grams (2 tablespoons) heavy cream

265 grams ( 3/4 cup) honey

Pour the milk into a saucepan— about 5 inches in diameter—to a depth of about 2 inches, and place, undisturbed, for 15 to 20 minutes, over very low heat. Meanwhile, brush a plate with some of the cream. When a thick skin forms on top of the milk, carefully loosen the edges from the side of the pot with a spatula, leaving the skin undisturbed. With your fingers, pick up the skin from opposite sides of the

3 to 4 tender wild fennel stalks, about 4 inches long 3 to 4 mature aromatic wild fennel flower pods 2 grams (1 teaspoon) fennel seeds

Prick the bottom half of each fig with a needle in three places. Stand the figs upright, in a single layer, in a pan with the wine, honey, fennel stalks and flower pods, and fennel seeds. Bring the wine to a light simmer and cover the pan. Poach the figs until they soften but still maintain their shape, about 10 minutes. Transfer the figs to a storage container. Reduce the wine mixture by about half, just until it begins to thicken. Pour the warm liquid, with the fennel stalks and pods, over the figs. Cool at room temperature, cover the container, and refrigerate overnight.

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pan. Let the 2 halves of the skin drape together, and place the folded skin on the prepared plate. Brush a little more cream on top of the skin and cover with plastic wrap. Return the pan to the heat and repeat until you have made 8 to 10 skins. Brush cream on top of the plastic wrap before adding a skin to the stack. Cover the finished stack of skins loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate until almost ready to use.

> To Serve Fleur de sel Freshly ground black pepper Fennel fronds Extra-virgin olive oil

Let the milk skins come up to room temperature for a few minutes, until they are pliable. Cut the reserved figs in halves and place 3 halves on each plate. Drape pieces of the milk skin over the figs, followed by a drizzle of the confit syrup, and a piece of the confit fennel. Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel, a turn of the pepper mill, a few small fennel fronds, and a drizzle of olive oil.

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I created this nod to my New Orleans upbringing as a way to keep up with the copious amounts of hearty greens that arrive from Love Apple Farms. Now it’s one of the first seasonal bites at Manresa. We encourage diners to poke around in the (kale) leaves to find the treasure. The centers are made with mustard greens, kale, and chard, but almost any braising greens will do. The kale chips are tossed with nutritional yeast before baking for a haunting flavor, while the coating of malt vinegar powder and final grating of cheese are a riff on the confectioners’ sugar that’s used to finish traditional sweet beignets. Serve as ed hors d’oeuvres or as an appetizer course.

garden beigne ts and cr ispy le aves makes 18 to 20 beignets

| Beignet Centers |

| Beignet Batter |

| Kale Chips |

200 grams (7 ounces) greens, including mustard, kale, and chard, stems removed (8 cups, tightly packed)

5 grams (2 teaspoons) active dry yeast

25 to 30 small (3- to 4-inch) kale leaves (black Toscano or red Russian)

100 grams (1 cup) thinly sliced white onion 15 grams (1 tablespoon) butter 15 grams (1 tablespoon) extra-virgin olive oil 3 grams (1/2 teaspoon) kosher salt, plus more as needed 55 grams (2 ounces) aged goat’s milk Cheddar or Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated

Sweat the greens and onion in the butter and oil in a heavy covered pan over low heat for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they are very tender. Season with salt and cool to room temperature. Finely chop the vegetables and, using your hands, mix in the cheese. Add more salt if needed. Roll into 1-inchdiameter balls, approximately 10 to 12 grams each, cover with plastic wrap, and reserve in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

185 grams (1 cup plus 2 tablespoons) all-purpose flour 40 grams (3 tablespoons) sugar

Approximately 3 grams (1/2 teaspoon) kosher salt Approximately 2 grams (1 teaspoon) nutritional yeast

6 grams (1 teaspoon) kosher salt

Sprinkle the yeast over the warm milk and set aside in a warm place for about 10 minutes to activate. Combine the dry ingredients. Add the yeast mixture to the egg white. Whisk in the dry ingredients and mix until the batter is smooth. Proof at room temperature for about 1 hour. Extra batter—enough to coat a second batch of Beignet Centers—will hold for a few days in the refrigerator. Bring to room temperature before using.

Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). If you have a convection oven, set the fan on low. Gently toss the kale leaves with just enough olive oil to coat them with a light film. Season to taste with salt and yeast. Place the leaves between two silicone baking mats on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes. Remove the top mat and bake for another 5 minutes. Turn the leaves over, rotate the pan, and bake again for 5 minutes. Continue to turn and bake until crispy, 2 to 3 rotations. Store in a dry box (see page 310).

Heat the grapeseed oil for deep-frying to 350°F (175°C).

Grapeseed oil, for-deep frying

Using 2 spoons, thickly coat the chilled Beignet Centers in the Beignet Batter and fry in the grapeseed in small batches for a few minutes, turning and basting with oil, until golden brown. Drain on paper towels, snip off any tails of batter with scissors, then roll the hot beignets in a little of the malt vinegar powder. Arrange the beignets on serving plates, grate cheese over the beignets, garnish with Kale Chips, and serve immediately.

25 grams (1 ounce) aged goat’s milk Cheddar or Parmigiano-Reggiano

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1 egg white, whisked to a light froth

Approximately 6 grams (11/2 teaspoons) extra-virgin olive oil

> To Serve 10 grams (2 tablespoons) malt vinegar powder

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200 grams ( 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons) whole milk, warmed to less than 90°F (30°C)

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Copyright © 2013 by David Kinch Photographs copyright © 2013 by Eric Wolfinger Illustrations copyright © 2013 by Reed Glaser All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are ed trademarks of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Catag-in-Publication Data Kinch, David, 1961– Manresa : an edible reflection / David Kinch with Christine Muhlke; photography by Eric Wolfinger. pages cm Includes index. 1. Cooking, American—California style. 2. Manresa (Restaurant) I. Muhlke, Christine. II. Title. TX715.2.C34K56 2013 641.59794—dc23 2013016098 Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-397-2 eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-398-9 Printed in China Design by Toni Tajima 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition

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MANRE S A