Fully Fashion 6f6e7

Page 1 of 30 Knitwear Technology (Fully fashion) Knitting: Knitting is a inter locking / inter looping / inter matching of loops which form a structure is called Knitting. Weaving: weaving is a interlacement of two sets of yarn at right angles which form a structure is called weaving. Loop: banding form of yarn is called loop. Apparel Woven

Knitwear Cut & sew Tubular Light Fine gauge

Fully fashion course gauge heavy sweater

Classification of knitted structure: Knitted structure Weft knitted structure Circular knitting Small dia m/c

Flat bed knitting

Large dia m/c

Warp knitted structure Tricot

Raschel

Hand driven Power driven - Drive manually - Driven in power End products: End product: - limited design - unlimited/fancy Socks T-shirt can produce design can produce - Multi non apparel seam polo shirt - low volume - High volume can produce. production production - Mosquito net. -Fabric for clothing - Integrated gmts - Integrated garments - Mesh fabric. - Single Jersey not possible possible - Power net. - Rib knitted structure - Fish net - Double jersey End products: sweater, fully fashioned - Laces etc. - Lacoste / pique knitwear, cardigan, poll over etc Describe the various structures:

Page 2 of 30 Warp knitted structure: lengthwise (warp wise) direction of loops is called warp knitted structure. Mesh fabric: ing fabric, look like a mosquito net use in short garments. Power net: use in Hajack lamp. Weft knitted structure: widthwise (weft wise) direction of loops is called weft knitted structure. Wales: vertical columns of loop are called Wales Course: horizontal raw of loop is called course. Types of knitting m/c:. Circular knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in circular way that’s why it is called circular knitting m/c. It has two needle beds. One is cylinder (vertical needles) Another is dial (horizontal needles) Dia: maximum circle distance in a circle is called dia. Two types of dia small dia (for socks) large dia (cutting fabric – lacoste/pique) Gauge: It means thickness. no. of gauge Fine gauge : T-shirt (24g, 40g) Course gauge: sweater (3g, 5g) Higher the gauge finer the knit, lower the gauge courser the knit. Flat bed Knitting m/c: Needles are arranged in flat way that’s why it is called flat bed knitting m/c. It has two needle beds. -Technical front (T.F) - Technical back ( T.B) It is also called Jacquard m/c. Integrated garments: without any stitch or linking in garments. without any , seamless garments.

Page 3 of 30 Shem seiki: Shem seiki is first producer of whole garments in Japan. Company name is also known as brand. -Ladies shirt is known as ladies blows. - Heavy knitwear means sweater. Why it is called fully fashion? Fully fashion: Fully fashion is a method / technique of shaping a knitted structure by increasing or decreasing the number of needles or wales. In the fully fashion there is no fabric formats. Just it is made by increasing or decreasing the shape of end product, increasing or decreasing of needles. Advantages of fully fashion: -

we can produce zero(less) wastage garments. Less manpower. we can produce quality garments/sealed garments.

Disadvantage:

Textile fiber: anything that can be garments/originated from fiber. In narrow sense: Textile means – fiber to fabric production. ie fiber

yarn

In greater sense: fiber clothing Fibers are chemical/natural structure that can be spun into yarn. Basic requirements for fibers:

Based on sourcing: Textile fiber Natural Animal (wool) Plant/vegetable (cotton)

Chemical made Acrylic

Fiber: any types of substance but the length and thickness ratio is very high.

fabric

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Thickness and length ratio

1:800, 1:1000 etc

Major properties of fiber: 1. 2.

Mechanical properties: Abrasion resistance Flexibility Stiffness. Absorption properties: this is a measure of quality of water vapors, liquid water etc. ie water absorption. Water/oil release. 3. Thermal properties: The behavior of textile in the presence of heat or when exposed to a flame. - Heat resistance capacity. - Soften and melting.

Fiber identification test: 1. Burning test: Wool Flammability Burning smell 2. Chemical test:

Acrylic

Not flammable

highly flammable

hair burning smell

petrol burning smell

(-) alkalies (+) acids poor resistance in alkalis good resistance in acids

3. Microscopic test:

(+) alkalies (+) acids

Cotton flammable paper burning smell (+) alkalies (-) acids

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Based on length: Fiber Staple

Filament

Short Cotton (1.27 – 6.34 cm)

Long Wool (3.8 cm)

Acrylic (2000 mtr)

Textile yarn: Yarn: twisted form of fibers is called yarn. ASTM: American society of textile materials. ASTM definition of yarn: A generic term for a continuous strength of textile fibre is called yarn.

Classification of textile yarn: Textile yarn Span Simple

Filament complex/ fancy/ vovelty Mono

Single

Multi

Plied Cords

cables

Flat

Twisted

Page 6 of 30 Visual properties: -Mono - Multi - Staple - Two ply yarn - Multi ply yarn - Cord - Cable Span yarn: Twisting together of staple fiber. Single yarn: consists of just one stand of fibre. Plied yarn: are art formed by twisting together two or more single. Cords: are made by plying / twisting together by plied yarn. Cables: are produced by plying cords. Complex/ fancy: This has special effect on. Slub yarn: contains partially bulky / fluffy. Loop yarn: this yarn requires a base yarn (core yarn) around which fancy or effect yarn is warped. Wool yarn: Sheep (fleece of sheep) Lower part

upper part

Various levels: Pure wool: 100% wool Virgin wool: raw wool Blended wool: 70% wool & 30% acrylic Basic properties of wool: -

It is heavy due to bulky fiber Dull in appearance Strength is very poor Poor resistance in sunlight and heat. Cool and low steam use

Page 7 of 30 -

Insects from poor resistance React in alkalis Shrinkage.

End use: Fully fashion, shut. Acrylic: Acrylic is known as acrylonitrile which we get from acetylene of ethylene. Acrylic is also known as cheaper substitute of wool. Basic properties of Acrylic: -

Light shining Good strength Comparatively low worm Not react in sunlight. First look bright but second it creates boblin. Especially in heavy weight.

Cotton: 10 g, 12 g ------ Buyer prefer Cotton yarn -------summer or spring -------Fashion & Requirements Basic properties of cotton: -

Smooth and fine Cool feeling Strength medium to high Insect don’t like.

Disadvantages: - Low resistance End use: Knit, woven, fully fashion, inner and outer garments.

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Yarn use in fully fashion: Basic yarn -100% cotton -Mixed cotton -100% wool -Blended wool -100% acrylic -Acrylic mélange

Fancy Farm -chenille----Not wash - Cashmere -Angorn - loop Yarn / Popcorn - Tape yarn - Nep yarn. - Mohasre

Chenille: cotton Chenille - lurcx chenille --- Feather chenille ----- Rainbow chenille---- Space dyed -------- Fade

Acrylic chenille

Cashmere kvj 100% acrylic Rabit ----------- Angorn -----Neps -------- Boblin

Woven garments: Fabric

Fully Faison – Expensive but profitable also

Cutting Sewing --- washing Pressing Finishing

Page 9 of 30 Production flowchart of fully fashion knit wear : yarn receive from textile Yarn inspection (Random basis) Winding Yarn cone distribution to the knitting operator Knitting section Knitting inspection - In process & - End process. Linking section Linking inspection -In process & -End process Linking continue / trimming section Mending Washing hydro extracting and drying Processing Finishing

-

1. labeling Name 1 Size -2 Care 2etc 2. Button hole Button Cutting 3. Hang tog pricing attaching 4. Folding 5. primary packing 6. Secondary packing 7. Quality audit by quality control team 8. Final packing 9. final inspection done by buyer responsibly by A Q L method 10. Ready for export Hank

Page 10 of 30

Cone Cotton Inspection -- Color and weight Lab deep Color requirement depend on buyer 4 s 5 s -----Cardigan. Weight Production 1. Yarn quantity a. Material quantity b. Type of gage

Merchandising

Material: - 1. Strong yarn /Good strength 2. Less strength. (Chenille) Gage: Normal gage –3g, 5g, 7g – (16,1bs + 4%) Fine gage --- 10g, 12g ---- (16,1b + (4+1) %) (Shadel +1%) -

1. Why we weight the yarn? If not weight the yarn then worker miss use the yarn. In distribution room blog/protection because any worker could not entered the distribution room.

Fully fashion m/c - Less manpower - Quantity -Design low Knitting process is depend on design chart – Heart of the sweater production operator could not idea about actual design chart .So they could not say how to design it. They learn if with experience not scientific way. 7 gage: - 7 needles exist in per inch. Fabric fault in fully fashion: 1. Hole 2. Laddering 3. Ply mistake --- yarn broken. 4. Why we women worker in mending section? Here is poor salary and women are expert in mending and they have biological .

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Tremble drying m/c. Boiler ----- Steam iron. Different types of stitches / Design used in fully fashion Basic category: 1. Jersey stitch Fancy category 2. Rib stitch -- shaker / Half cardigan stitch. 3. Double jersey --- Full cardigan stitch Cables:--Milano stitch 1. Normal -- Tuck stitch 2. Fancy --printal stitch 3. Butterfly -- Zigzag stitch -- Drop knit stitch . Diamond:1. Normal 2. Fancy Stitch – An intermeshed loop. Describes different types of stitches / Design -----Jersey / Single jersey/single knit / plain knit / basic knit etc. This is very basic knitting construction .It’s a single beded structure .The needle diagram of jersey is -----------The stitch diagram is -----It can produce both in flat bed 4 circular bed m/roperties of Jersey stitch:Appearance: - In single Jersey both side are different in appearance. Out look:T/M: V Shape stitch /jersey stitch. T/B: Semi circle stitch /Are stitch. -

Edge curling : it curls T/B to t/B T/B to T/B in width wise Length wise wilts wise Strength: - Tightness and looseness activity. Yarn tension – T/F to T/B G curl -Unbalanced fabric because back side no needle. Carling – so worker take time to linking and producing extra time.

How to reduce the curly:-

Page 12 of 30 1. After knitting and before sewing /linking by using parching. (Light knit circular knit swach) 2. Use folder /attachment 3. Use standard m/c Dimensional stability: - Because of single jersey dimensional stability in poor. S.J garments do not washable. How to reduce the dimensional stability? 1. To increase loop density 2. Apply resin finish chemical resin use properties shaf t - Soft ness - Estability / elasticity. Elasticity:-Length and width wise elasticity is same because course and wales wise loop length almost same. Unraveled: we can unroalled this structure in both side. How ladering defect create – 1. Needle head broken. 2. Loose tension. 3. Knot in the yarn. Rib knitted structure:- The word rib derives from animal rib. This is a double beded structure. The needles heads are not facing directly each other. There are various types of rib knitted structure. But very common structure is 1x1 & 2x2 rib; above3x3, 4x4 etc are known as fancy rib. But 6x6 rib is known as specially Derby rib. The needle diagram of 1x1 ribs and stitches diagram of 1x1 The needle bed of 2x2 and stitch is can produce both flat bed and circular bed knitting m/c. Appearance: - Same in appearance. -semi circle loop can be observed between in v shape. Edge curling: Rib structure does not curl at the edge. Its balanced structure. Dimensional stability:-Dimensional stability is good. Elasticity:-width wise direction is high than that of length wise.

Why width wise elasticity high? -Semi circle width is high, so width wise elasticity high. Unraveled from close it only.

Page 13 of 30 Density: - Density is high in temperature in single jersey. End use : - waist band, collar, cuff or total sweater. we can use by rib fabric. High rib – under garments, because elasticity and comfort ability. Similarities between the single jersey and rib Structure. 1. we can produce the Single Jersey and Rib fabric in similar flat bed and circular bed knitting m/c. 2. Both types fabrics are knitted structure. 3. Both fabrics are mend able. 4. created by loop formation.

Double jersey / Interlock/ Double faced fabric: If the plain stitches are one bedded, the other fabric structure is known as double jersey / interlock. It’s double bedded fabric, can produce both in flat bed & circular bed knitting m/c. The needle diagram of double jersey is ------and the stitch diagram is -----It is called tight knitted. Theoretically needle heads are kept face to face but practically needle heads are not face to face. It stay little bit in angle. Properties and appearance. 1. Both side similar. 2. Curl: Double jersey does not curl because it very tight knitted fabric. 3. Dimensional stability good.. 4. Unraveled : Same as rib. 5. Elasticity : Poor 6. Defecting: It laddering occurs. We can’t mending like rib & jersey. 7. Density : Density high because both side needles are active. Thickness & elasticity consider while identifying double jersey.

Page 14 of 30 End use:  Sweater  Gents & ladies wear  Light knit.  Sports wear ( suet absorbency high, dimensional stability high )  Ladies shirt.

Similarities between D/j and rib :  Basic knit  Both can made in flat bed circular bed m/c.  Both fabrics both side appearance same  Does not use.  Dimensional stability good.  Unraveled: Both are same. Difference between D/j & Rib 1. Needle diagram – 2. Stitch diagram 3. elasticity -

very poor

high (width wind)

4. density

High

Comparatively low

5. Weight 6. Mending

high

low Not mend able

mend able

Page 15 of 30 Notation for knitted structure :

The symbol which represent different types of loops are called notations. There are two types of symbols. We use to identify different structure like  Indicate technical face (v) loop  Indicate technical back loop. So for single jersey Impotency : 1. Language variation avoided 2. Different name confliction avoidance. 3. Loop drawing is difficult and time consuming to avoid this problem

Process break down (operation break down) of a fully fashion knitwear: Step by skip (body )  Select & setting needles for bottom rib .

Page 16 of 30 By needle selection for sleeve : Prepare rib height By going coursers Loop transfer from

for saddle

for raglan

for straight

Back needle bed to

sleeve

Sleeve

Sleeve

Front needle bed If the body is in search For jersey setting by loop transfer comb

For 1 Step by step ( sleeve  Select and setting for cuff rib by needle selector. Prepare rib height by giving courses. Linking (R/side)

Knit up to am hole start point

Pre pare arm hole by decreasing or Decreasing or increasing both processes. Also prepare back drip and reached up to Neckline shoulder line.

Right shoulder ing left shoulder ing Attach color rib Link skive to body Side seam linking End of operation

Page 17 of 30 Identification of different types of fancy stitches/design 1. Shaker/Half cardigan stitch: a. Normal construction 1X1 rib, double bedded structure. T/F & T/B b. T/F-looks bulky/Fluffy V loop c. T/B-looks tight V loop as chain stitch 2. Full cardigan stitch : Normal construction 1X1 double bedded both side same. Both side raised V shape like, but zigzag. 3. Milano stitch: Normal construction double jersey ie, full needles from both side needle bed. T/F & T/B not same.  T/F – looks t V stitch like after stitch  T/B looks chain or tight V shape. 4. Drop knit: Could be any construction, like single jersey, rib, double jersey setting . Like 5X1, 4X2, odd setting etc. 5. Zigzag : Could be in any construction like single jersey, Double jersey. Vertical in hand driven.

Page 18 of 30 Tuck stitch : Normal construction 1X1. could be single tuck or double tuck appearance. Looks like single side honey comb both side honey comb. Cables: There are three types of cables – Normal

Fancy

Butterfly

 Cables normally jersey. Diamond: Normal

Double Needle

Pointed stitch : Could be any construction.

Fancy

half diamond

Page 19 of 30 Knit wear ( Fully fashion ) stitch analysis – Style: Individual properties – Something own. Fashion: overall –Related common –geography , culture, age, sex, values, it could be varied. What are the objective of style analysis – 1. Evaluate merchandise classification. 2. Plan fashioning ( design chart/ pattern chart) 3. Calculating / setting comparative costing and pricing. If a merchandiser fiercest the style/ fashion then he/she kept to idea about the western culture on western recent style/fashion. Why we select the different fashion?

Page 20 of 30 Design Chart: It is a heart of the fully fashion and very expensive factor. Sweater style ( based on some ) factors: Like 1. Body style/shape 2. Shoulder style ( Arm hole style) 3. Collar style/ neck style. 4. pocket style 5. Sleeve style. ]Body style/ shape: Fitted waist mans only

Straight bottom for unisex

A line shape for ladies only

Cardigan for unisex

Shoulder style Raglan

Saddle

Steen

drape

Shoulder

shoulder

Shoulder

shoulder

Straight Shoulder

Page 21 of 30 Sleeve style : Sleeve less

cap sleeve

short sleeve

3/r sleeve

For both

for ladies

for both

for ladies

Long sleeve For both Collar style : Make neck it

sailor neck

Can’t for

truer

boat knack

Round Neck

V Neck

polo neck

Hood Neck

High neck

Graded neck

Turtle neck

V inset neck

Round neck With roll edge

Page 22 of 30 Pocket style : Plain pocket

Real flap

hexagon

round

Square

blind

bellow

Pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

Fake flap

fake lip

welted

inverted

Box

Pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket

pocket Pocket

Style description : Unisex pullover (straight bottom), mock neck, straight shoulder, long sleeve and single line diamond center front, back & sleeve jersey.

Fashioning (Design chart/pattern chart) calculation for fully fashion knitwear

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What is design: Design is a creative indexer to solve a problem. What is design chart: Design chart for a garment is a visual written instruction Design chart produce in two methods: a) Out line method b) Graphical method What is the basic requirement to calculation design chart? a) b) c)

Size specification (Measurement) Gage type Weight of the garments

    

Pattern: Shape create by increasing or decreasing size that is called pattern. Art: Art is the blue print of the design. Design: Actual shape of the thing. Swatch: Small part of the fabric. Tension: Tight are looseness of the yarn is called tension.

Buyer’s required weight accordingly tension setup. But in seven gage m/c 8 or 6 needle coming for tension. So tension selection in important because it is related to quality. Swatch identification:

SW-2

SW-1

Excremental swatch wash dry pressing keep 24 hours rest 24 hours actual mesurment yarn effect colour fastness, responsibility etc. Idea counter swatch compare. 4”

16 = 4

4”---------12 4

=

4 WPI 3 I

We can create design chart according to the measurement. Calculate the fashioning sequence for the following knitted :

Page 24 of 30 Back /Pant Say 7 Tension WPI = 3 I = 4 A-A1 = 10” B-B1 = 20” C-C1/D-D1 = 20” A-B B-C C-D

= 10” = 12” = 2”

For Rib fabric Water / Needle Course

3x20 4x2

= 60 = 08

Needle Course

3x20 4x12

= 60 = 48

Raglan sleeve Needle Course

3x10 4x10

= 30 = 40

Body Position

Calculate Decreasing needle 60 30 30/2

15 one side decrease

No of count No of 7 needle

Raglan sleeve :

40 15/40/2 (-1) = (15-10) 30 5 10

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Say tension WPI I

=3 =4

Cuff rib Needle Course

3x14 4x16

= 42 = 64

Welding: Needle Course

3x18 4x16

= 54 = 64

A B

10+1 = 2 11+12 = 4

3x6 4x12

= 18 = 48

A B

2-1 3-1

Narrowing: Needle Course

Front /Part Say tension: WPI I

=3 =4

For bottom rib Needle 3x14 Course 4x2

= 42 =8

Widening: Needle Course

= 60 = 72

A.

3x20 4x18

8+1 = 9

Straight:

=6 = 12

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Needle Course

3x20 4x2

= 60 =8

A B

2-1 3-1

3x8 4x16

= 24 = 64

=6 = 12

Narrowing: Needle Course a. b.

3-1 = 8 4-1 = 10

Calculation of fashioning for the following knitted : Say tension WPI = 18 I = 20 Bottom rib Needle = Course =

18x9 20x2

= 162 = 40

Widening: Needle = Course = a. b.

18x19 = 342 20x16 = 320

3+1 = 40 4-1 = 50

Straight: Needle = Course =

18x19 = 342 20x2 = 40

Font / part Say tension WPI I

= =

8 10

Page 27 of 30 For bottom rib-1 Needle = Course =

8x14 10x2

= 112 20

Widening Needle = Course = a. b.

6+1 = 8 7-1 = 16

Narrowing Needle = Course = a. b.

8x20 = 160 10x16 = 100

8x4 = 32 10x10 = 100

4+1 = 20 5-1 = 4

Calculating yarn consumption for fully fashion knitwear What is consumption? In the garments trade, consumption means quantity of raw materials with a view to determine the price of a garment. In order to calculate the above quantity how much fabric, raw materials, sewing thread, accessories are required to produce a garments up to the exporting is called consumption. What is the unit of consumption:

lb/oz

What are the requirements of calculation consumption? -Material quantity -Type of gage -Business type of factory / buying house -Weight of garments Two types of yarn a) Good Yarn b) Poor Yarn.

What types of buying house exist?

Page 28 of 30

There are three types: A) Direct order B) Liago office C) Corporate office: factory exist Types of gage a) Normal gage: 3g, 5g, 7g b) Finer gage: 10g, 12g Garments weight : Weight 16 lbs/oz

+

Factory Wastage 6% 8% buying house

Gage (10/12)g

chaining

Why buying house select wastage 8%

Calculating pricing / costing for fully fashion knitwear: What is the objective of costing? Basic requirement to calculating pricing UnderstandingStyling Deg  Type of gage  Production / delivery time (Season)  Payment mode  Basic types of buying house/factory. Season calculation Type of gage 3g, 5g, 7g 10g, 12g

Pricing:

Pick March-August September, February, March August

Off Pick September

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Costing + Profit = correct selling price Direct + indirect cost include – calculation actual CM C.M range based on gage Type of gage 3g 5g 7g (10/12)g

$ $ $ $

Styling charge: For Shaddle or Raglan shoulder Set- in or drop shoulder Straight shoulder

Off pick 17/Dz 18/Dz 19/Dz 22/Dz

: $ 0.50/dz : $ 0.25/dz : No charging additional.

Deg charge: For - Diamond Normal Diamond Fancy diamond

-

$ $

1.00/line/dz 1.50/line/dz

$ $ $

0.25/line/dz 0.50/line/dz 1.00/line/dz

For-Cable Normal cable Fancy cable Butterfly cable -

$ $ $ $

Pick 19/Dz 20/Dz 21/Dz 24/Dz

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Mens pullover with crew neck, raglan shoulder., 3(three)line normal diamond at font back side line butterfly, sleeve side line fancy cables, long sleeve weight 16 lbs/dz, acrylic yarn 3 gage shipment 30th June. FOB mode shipment, for factory. Required costing /pricing for fully fashion required yarn cost. 16 +16% C.M cost Style cost Design cost

= 16.96 x $1.50

3 line diamond 1x3 = 3 1 line butterfly 1x1=1 2 line fancy cable .50x2 = 1

= = = = =

$ $ $ $

25.44 19.00 0.50 1.00

$

1.00

Trims and accessories

=

$

4.00

Banking, logistic and commercial

=

$

4.00

=

$

Total cost

57.00/Dz