031308 Bonus Scroll Saw 3k6n36

WEEKEND PROJECT

FRETWORK

PICTURE FRAME With a scroll saw and a few extra hours, you can turn a plain frame into this elegant one.

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ccasionally, I enjoy sitting down and cutting fretwork patterns with my scroll saw. The change in pace is a nice break from my typical woodworking routine. But like any time I spend in the shop, I want to end up with something I can be proud of. Something that belongs on a mantle, a night stand, or in a grandchild’s bedroom. This fretwork frame is just the kind of project I enjoy. It doesn’t take much

NOTE: Frames sized to hold ’3 x 5’ photo

time. Plus, it turns a plain frame into an attractive, heirloom project. S. The best way to begin is to cut two identical s: one for the fretwork and another to back the photo, see the drawing below. I designed them to hold 3x5 photos. But after taking a few measurements,

I realized that 3x5 photos aren’t exactly 3" by 5". So if you have a particular picture you want to put in this frame, cut the s to match your photo. (My s were 31/2" x 43/4".) Once the s are cut to size, it's time to cut the fretwork pattern in one of the s. So set the other a.

4!/4"

FIRST: Cut frame blanks to size

!/2"

4!/4" Rip fence

!/2"

#/4" x !!/16" brass hinge

b.

5!/2"

Router fence

SECOND: Round over edges of each blank

5!/2" !/8" round-over bit

c. S (!/8" x 3!/2" - 4#/4")

THIRD: Cut groove to hold !/8"

!/8" Deep groove FRAME PIECES (!/2" x !/2")

24

NOTE: For more on cutting fretwork, see page 26

#4 X !/2" Fh woodscrew

Woodsmith

Center !/8" groove on blank

No. 103

aside, and photocopy one of the patterns shown below. For more on cutting fretwork patterns, see the article on page 26. FRAMES. When the fretwork is complete, the s are ready for the frame pieces. I started with extralong 1/2" x 1/2" blanks, see detail ‘a’ on the previous page. Just be sure to make a few extra. You’ll need them when setting up the cuts. I wanted the frames to be simple, so the attention would be on the photo and the fretwork. So for decoration, all I did was round over the

1

Use clamps to hold frame while drilling pilot holes

edges of the blanks, see detail ‘b’. Next, to hold the s, a centered groove is cut in each piece, see detail ‘c’. This groove should be just wide enough to hold the s. With my 1/ " thick s, a single on the 8 table saw with a combination blade was all that was needed. ASSEMBLY. Now the frame pieces are ready to be mitered to finished length and then assembled around the s. With the frame for the fretwork, this is simply a matter of gluing and clamping the frame around the . But the frame for the photo has to

Photo Acetate

a.

#4 x !/2" Fh woodscrew

be assembled a little differently. Here, I glued up one corner at a time until three of the pieces were together. Then the bottom piece is simply screwed in place, see Fig. 1. At this point, the that backs the photo fits too snug in the grooves to include the photo and an acetate cover. So I sanded the just enough to reduce its thickness until everything fit into the grooves. FINISH. Finally, I finished the frames with an oil finish. Then I stacked them together and ed them with a pair of brass hinges, see Fig. 2. ❑

2

#2 x #/8" Brass screw

!/2"

Stack frames and attach hinges

Full-size Patterns

No. 103

Woodsmith

25

Night Light Light up the night with four interchangeable patterns featuring enchanting scenes that are sure to please your child. All it takes to build it is a scroll saw, a small light bulb, and a weekend in the shop.

S

ome projects get their charm from the wood that’s missing. This Night Light is one of those projects. It’s just a box with the sides, top, and bottom made from solid wood. What makes it interesting is the interchangeable front that screens the light shining from a small bulb inside. I designed this Night Light with four of these scroll-sawn hardwood s. Then, depending on your mood or the season, you can slide one in front of the light, and store the others in a compartment in the back of the box. DESIGNS. If you’re artistic (or have clip art on your computer), it would

78

SCROLL SAWN

be easy to come up with hundreds of different ideas for your own s. I’ve included four examples for the s in my Night Light. Each has a magical quality that will look nice in a child’s bedroom or sitting on a hallway table or stand. (You can find the patterns in the Designer’s Notebook on page 82.) WOOD. I used cherry for all the parts of the Night Light. The color and warmth of cherry enhance the glow cast by the light. And because cherr y is closegrained, it cuts well on a scroll saw. SUPPLIES. The light fixture is a Christmas-tree-size (4-watt) bulb that clips tightly into the base of the box. This

light bulb fixture, along with a full-size drawing of each of the four patterns (and a piece of felt cloth for the bottom) is available from Woodsmith Project Supplies. (See Sources on page 126.) THIN STOCK. Except for the sides, each piece in this project is made from wood that’s 1/2" thick or less. Finished stock this thin can be found, but it may cost a bit more. A good alternative is to resaw the stock from thicker boards. (For more on this, go to the Technique on page 65.) SCROLL SAWING. And to learn the secret to making the most of your scroll saw projects, I suggest you check out the Technique article on page 86.

EXPLODED VIEW OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 6W x 51/4D x 9H C LID

BACK A D LID BLOCK

DIVIDER A

INTERCHANGEABLE A

SIDE B B SIDE

LIGHT BOARD E

LIGHT FIXTURE

BASE C

MATERIALS LIST WOOD A s (6) B Sides (2) C Base/Lid (2) D Lid Block (1) E Light Board (1)

1/ 4 3/ 4 1/ 2 1/ 2 1/ 8

CUTTING DIAGRAM #/4 x 5!/2 - 36 (Two Boards @ 1.2 Bd. Ft. Each) D

x 43/4 - 8 x 43/4 - 8 x 51/4 - 6 x2-4 x2-4

HARDWARE SUPPLIES (4) No. 6 x 1" Fh woodscrews (1) Felt cloth (6" x 6") (1) Night light socket switch w/ cord (1) 4-watt frosted bulb

A

A

A

E

#/4 x 5!/2 - 36 (1.2 Bd. Ft.)

C

C

B

B

NIGHT LIGHT 79

RESAWN S

1

Start building the Night Light by cutting the six blanks — four for the interchangeable s (A), plus one divider (A), and one back (A). The Night Light box is built around these. BLANK. To make these six 1/4"thick s, first cut a piece of 3/4"-thick stock to final width (43/4") and rough length (26") (Fig. 1). RESAW S. Then resaw this into two s that are each slightly thicker than 1/4". I used the table saw and made two es with a sharp blade (Fig. 1). (For more on this procedure, see the Technique article on page 65.) You could also use a band saw or thickness planer to reduce the stock to 1/4". Now, sand or plane the saw marks from all the s so they’re all 1/4" thick. Then cross-cut both blanks to produce six 8"-long s (Fig. 2). Note: You could use plywood, but the plies will show on the finished s. PATTERNS. Now use the patterns in the Designer’s Notebook on page 82 to lay out the designs and cut them out.

SIDES After resawing and cutting the six s to size, the next step is to make the grooved sides of the box. SIDE BLANK. The two sides (B) start out as one blank of 3/4"-thick stock. Cut the blank to finished width (43/4") and rough length (161/2") (Fig. 3). GROOVES. Next, cut three 1/4"wide grooves for the s to slide into.

3

2

SECOND: POSITION FENCE SLIGHTLY MORE THAN !/4" FROM BLADE BLANK (#/4"-THICK STOCK 4#/4" x 26")

MAKE TWO ES, FLIPPING WORKPIECE END FOR END BETWEEN ES

8 4#/4

FIRST: SET RIP BLADE TO CUT 2!/2" HIGH

I used the table saw with a rip blade to form all the grooves. But before cutting the grooves in the blank, cut a test piece the same size as the blank to check the width and position of each groove. The first grooves to cut are the two outside ones (Fig. 3). To do this, I set the fence 1/4" from the inside edge of the blade, and raise it 3/8" above the table. Now you can make one to cut a kerf in the test piece to form the outside edge of the groove. Then turn the piece end for end and cut a kerf near the other edge. When you’re satisfied with the kerf depth and its distance from the edge, cut kerfs on both edges of the actual workpiece, following the same procedure. Next you can reposition the fence and make a second on the test piece, so that the 1/4" s fit snugly in the grooves in the test piece. Then make the cuts on the actual workpiece to complete the two outside grooves. You’ll form the groove for the divider in the same way. This groove should be located 2" from the back edge of the box sides (Fig. 3).

4

FIRST: CUT TWO OUTSIDE GROOVES

BASE & LID Begin making the base and lid of the Night Light by cutting an over-size blank to final width (51/4") and rough length

5

B

SLIDE SIDE PIECE AGAINST FENCE TO TRIM EDGES

B SIDE

BACK EDGE

B SIDE

NOTE: USE TEST PIECE TO CHECK CUTS

#/4 8

ALL GROOVES ARE #/8" DEEP

4#/4 !/4

!/4

!/4 2

B

RIP FENCE

!/2

8

THIRD: CUT STORAGE CHAMBER

TRIM FRONT AND BACK EDGES OF SIDE PIECES TO !/2" THICK

6

SET BLADE #/8" HIGH

!/2

ROUTER TABLE FENCE

ROUND OVER OUTSIDE EDGE

1 B

SCROLL SAWN

STORAGE CHAMBER. Next, I cut a 1"wide storage chamber by making a series of es through the rip blade (Fig. 3). To make the sides appear thinner than they actually are, trim the front and back edges down to 1/2" thick (Fig. 4). To do this, set the table saw blade 1/2" from the fence and 3/8" high (Fig. 5). BULLNOSE PROFILE. After trimming the outside edges of the sides, rout a bullnose profile on them with a 3/8" roundover bit in a router table. To do this, first raise the bit 1/4" high and round over the outside edges (grooved face up) (Fig. 6). Then raise the roundover bit 1/2" high, flip the workpiece over, and round over the inside edges (grooves down) (Fig. 7). PRE-ASSEMBLY. Now cut the side piece into two 8"-long sections (Fig. 3). Then glue the back and divider s in place between the two sides.

SIDE B

SECOND: CUT DIVIDER GROOVE

80

A (CUT SIX PIECES !/4" THICK)

#/8" ROUNDOVER BIT !/4

7 ROUND OVER INSIDE EDGE B

!/2

(121/2"). Then you’ll want to resaw and sand the blank to a final thickness of 1/2". At this point, you can cut the blank into two pieces (each 6" long) to form a base (C) and a lid (C) (Fig. 8). ELECTRICAL FIXTURE. A “finger slot” in the base allows access to the electrical fixture. To make this, bore two holes in the base, then cut out the waste between them with a jig saw (Fig. 8a). Next, form a 1/4"-deep groove for the electrical cord in the bottom of the base using the router table (Fig. 9). After cutting this groove, soften all the edges of the top and bottom with a 3/8" roundover bit. To do this, raise the bit 1/4" above the table (Fig. 10).

8 5!/4

NOTE:

11

B SIDE

!/2

C BASE

BOTTOM SIDE OF BASE

!/2

C LID

BASE AND LID START OUT AS ONE LONG BLANK

BASE

C BASE

!/4" x !/4" GROOVE FOR ELECTRIC CORD

!/2

FINGER HOLE

a.

10

C (BASE ONLY)

ROUTER TABLE FENCE

WASTE NOTE: ROUT ACROSS END GRAIN FIRST 1#/4

BORE TWO 1"-DIA. END HOLES FOR FINGER SLOT

ASSEMBLING THE BOX When the base and lid are complete, finish assembling the box. Do this by first drilling countersunk shank holes on the bottom side of the base (Fig. 11a). Then center the base on the side assembly and temporarily clamp them together. The sides should be inset equally all around the base (Fig. 11). (In my case, this was 1/4".) Now drill pilot holes through the shank holes into the bottom ends of each side piece (Fig. 11a). Then glue and screw the base in place. LID BLOCK. The lid fits snugly onto the top by means of a lid block that’s glued to the underside of the lid (Fig. 12). To make the lid block (D), start by cutting a 3/4" piece of stock to fit the

9

6

C

2

2

opening of the light chamber (with an interchangeable in place). With the lid block cut to size, you can rout a narrow chamfer along all four edges of one side of the block. (The chamfered edges let you remove and replace the lid more easily.) Now, lay out the position of the lid block on the bottom of the lid (Fig. 12a) and glue the block in place. LIGHT BOARD. The light has a spring retainer that’s designed to seat into a 1/8"thick board with a 1" hole (Fig. 13). To make the light board (E), first measure the opening at the bottom of

12

!/4

#/8" ROUNDOVER BIT

the light chamber. Then cut a piece of 1/ " stock to fit this opening (Fig. 13a). 8 Bore a 1" hole through the center of this piece, then glue the light board in place in the bottom of the base. FINISH. Finally, to complete the project, I applied a tung oil finish to the box. Note: I found the box reflected more light through the s after I painted the inside surfaces of the light chamber (not including the interchangeable ) with a white enamel paint (Fig. 13). Now you can glue a piece of felt on the bottom of the box. This will hold the elec■ trical cord in place.

13 CHAMFER EDGES

SIDE

STORAGE CHAMBER

&/8 C LID

&/8

!/2

LIGHT CHAMBER D LID BLOCK (!/2" THICK)

NOTE:

!/4" INSET ON ALL SIDES

#6 x 1" Fh WOODSCREW

a.

a.

BACK

FRONT

!/4 PILOT HOLES

2

C

&/8

BASE NOTE: PAINT LIGHT CHAMBER WHITE FOR BRIGHTER GLOW

a.

CL 1"-DIA. THROUGH

HOLE

!/4" INSET

COUNTERSUNK SHANK HOLE

C LID

CHAMFER EDGES

E LIGHT BOARD (!/8"-THICK STOCK)

LID BLOCK D

2

E LIGHT BOARD

CL

#/4 &/8

4

1

CUT TO FIT

4

CUT TO FIT

NIGHT LIGHT 81

Perfect for a child’s bedroom, these Night Light patterns provide a soothing glow when it’s needed most. A hidden compartment inside the light holds the three extra s when they’re not being used. PATTERNS ■ The magic of the Night Light is in

the scroll-sawn s. Here are some suggestions for making four interchangeable s. The patterns shown here are half size, so enlarge them 200%. (Or you can receive all four of the full-size patterns from Woodsmith Project Supplies. See Sources, page 126.) Note: The lighter areas of the drawings are those that should be cut away. (I used a No. 5 skip tooth blade to cut each of the patterns.) ■ First, finish sand each of the blanks. Then glue a pattern to the blank using spray adhesive or a light coat of rubber cement. ■ Before you begin to saw, drill starting holes for the pierce (or inside) cuts, and for the other holes. ■ On the Falling Stars , drill the holes for the background stars first (using 1/16" and 1/8" drill bits). Note: The points on the moon and the falling stars will be sharpest if you form them with two intersecting cuts, rather than by trying to pivot around them. ■ For the Jack O’Lantern, drill out the stars (1/16" and 3/32" bits) and the moon (3/4" bit) first. Then cut out the details of the pumpkin. Pivot around the blade only when cutting out the eyes and the mouth. ■ Next, cut around the fence parts. And finally, cut around the cat. ■ Cat Fishin’ requires the most starting holes. Drill them first, then cut out the smaller areas. ■ Cut around the cat last so you’ll have plenty of when you’re scrolling between the leaves. ■ For Snowy Pine, drill holes for the snowflakes (1/16" bit) and the tree ornaments (3/32"). Then drill starting holes for the snow on the branches. Next cut the tree outline, and finally the snow on the ground. ■ Finish the s by dipping them in a shallow pan of tung oil. Then poke out the excess finish from the drill holes with a wire brad.

82

SCROLL SAWN

FALLING STARS

JACK O’LANTERN

ENLARGE 200%

ENLARGE 200%

CAT FISHIN’

SNOWY PINE

ENLARGE 200%

ENLARGE 200%

SCROLL SAW PROJECT

SCROLL-SAWN BOOKENDS The scroll-sawn s and brass plates make these bookends both attractive and functional.

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Pick a design (page 23), } choose a favorite wood, and build your own unique bookend. And for a distinctive look, set a thin piece of brass behind the scroll saw .

y good friend is an avid reader and a book collector, so this year, I decided to make him a pair of bookends. Not your plain, purely functional variety — I wanted something a bit more elegant. And for a change of pace, I also wanted to do a little work at the scroll saw. My solution was to capture a scrollsawn in a picture frame. This frame sits on a base with a rounded brass tongue on the bottom that sticks out and slides under the books. When it came to deg the scroll saw patterns, I had a couple ideas but needed some help putting them on paper. (I’m not much of an artist.) So I asked Mike Mittermeier, one of our Senior Illustrators, if he would take a shot at turning my ideas into workable scroll saw patterns. My first idea was a pineapple (a traditional symbol of hospitality). The other was less specific. I wanted a classic fretwork design. Mike did a great job with both patterns and even came up with one of his own — the stag, see photos. (Mike’s an avid outdoorsman.) But if you have some artistic talent, don’t limit yourself to these ideas; come up with some of your own. And experiment with different woods too.

We even backed up one of the scroll saw s with a thin (30-gauge) sheet of brass. (Take a look at the article on page 24 for more on working with brass.)

BASE As I mentioned earlier, each bookend is really just a picture frame that sits on top of a base, see Base Exploded View. I started with the base, which is two pieces of solid wood, plus a rounded brass plate. MOLDING. The first piece to work on is the base molding (A), see Base Exploded View. It’s only 1/4" thick so you’ll have to plane down some stock first. (If you don’t have a thickness planer, you can resaw what you need on the table saw, see page 15.) With 1/4"-thick stock in hand, you can cut the molding to rough size. I cut mine to finished length (6") but left it extra wide at this point (31/2"). This not only made the piece safer to work with, it also allowed me to cut two molding pieces from each blank. (Though there’s only one of each bookend shown in the photos at left, I actually made them in pairs.) Next, I rounded over the edges of the oversized blank with a 1/8" roundover bit, see Fig. 1. Since two pieces are being cut from this blank, all four

MATERIALS (For one bookend)

A B C D E F • •

20

Woodsmith

Base Molding (1) Base Bottom (1) Frame Ends (2) Frame Sides (2) Scroll Saw (1) Quarter Round (1)

!/4 x 1!/4 - 6 #/4 x 1&/8 - 7!/4 #/4 x 1 - 5!/2 #/4 x 1 - 7!/4 !/4 x 4!/2 - 6!/4 !/4 x !/4 - 28 ln. in.

(1) 16-Gauge Brass (4" x 5") (3) #8 x !/2" Fh Brass Woodscrews No. 126

edges need to be routed, not just three. And I started with the ends first so there’s less chance of chipout. Finally, I added an auxiliary top to my router table. It’s just a piece of 1/4" hardboard with a smaller bit opening to give the base pieces extra . BOTTOM . After the molding pieces were ripped to width (11/4"), the next piece to make is the base bottom (B), see Base Exploded View. This piece will end up a little bigger than the molding (17/8" x 71/4"). But it also starts out oversized, and two pieces will be cut from a single blank. The first thing to do to the bottom blank is rout a cove with a 1/2" cove bit, see Fig. 2. Again, I routed the profile on all four edges of the blank and ed the workpiece with a square push block. Then the two bottom pieces can be ripped to finished width (17/8"). RECESS FOR BRASS PLATE. To keep the bookend (and books) from falling over, a brass plate is set into the bottom piece. So the next thing to do is rout the recess that holds the plate, see Fig. 3. The recess is about 1/16" deep, but the important thing is that it match the thickness of the brass. To establish the size of the recess, I used an auxiliary fence with a couple stop blocks clamped on either side of a straight bit, see Fig. 3. With a 1/2"dia. straight bit, you’ll need to make a few es between the blocks. And after routing, the round corners will need to be squared up with a chisel. Gluing the molding to the bottom piece is pretty simple. The molding is centered side-to-side, see Base Exploded View. And the pieces should be flush along the back edge, see detail ‘b’ in Exploded View. BRASS PLATE. The brass plate is cut to size next, and the process isn’t much different from the woodworking you’ve already done. (For more on working with brass, see page 24.) With the plate cut to size, I rounded the end with a hardboard template, a sabre saw, and a flush trim bit. Finally, to soften the edge and make it easier to slide under the books, I routed a stopped chamfer around the curve. Then the plate can be screwed to the base, see detail ‘a’ above. No. 126

a.

b.

1

2

a.

a.

3

a.

b.

Woodsmith

21

Bookend Frame

{ The frame and scrollsawn are glued to the top of the base.

4

short. So be careful to keep your hands well away from the saw blade. ASSEMBLY. With the pieces mitered, the frame can be assembled. Gluing four mitered pieces together at the same time can be a little tricky. So I typically glue up two corners first and then glue the two halves together. When gluing the frame to the base, the inside edges should be flush. To do this, I laid the base back-side down on the edge of my workbench with the brass plate hanging off the edge. Then I glued the frame to the base, using hand pressure. (I didn’t want to put any clamping pressure on the miter ts at the top or the roundover profile at the bottom.) SCROLL SAW S . At this point,

5

a.

22

a.

Now that the base is built, all that’s left is to build a small picture frame and a scroll saw to go inside it, see Frame Exploded View at right and Exploded View on page 23. FRAME BLANKS. The frame holds the scroll saw in the front with builtin roundover molding. Making the frame pieces is an easy three-step process: a roundover is routed, channels are cut to create the rabbets, and then the pieces are cut to width. However, like the pieces for the base, it’s better to start with oversized blanks. So for each frame, I cut one blank from 3/4"-thick stock (3" x 15"). ROUT ROUNDOVER . After the blanks were cut to size, I routed a 1/4" roundover along the edges, see Fig. 4. This roundover has a shoulder, so the edge of the bit will need to be raised 1/8" above the table, see Fig. 4a. RABBET. Behind the roundover, there will be a rabbet the scroll saw fits into. But to create the rabbet, two 1/ "-deep channels need to be cut with 4 a 3/4"-wide dado set, see Figs. 5 and 5a. Then the pieces can be ripped to width (1"), see Fig. 6. Just position the rip fence so you end up with a 5/8"wide rabbet, see Fig. 6a. MITER PIECES . Now you can begin mitering these pieces to create the frame. I started with the frame ends (C), see Frame Exploded View. They should end up 1/2" shorter than the base. Then the frame sides (D) can be mitered to length. A word of caution, though. These frame pieces (especially the ends) are

you’re ready to make the scroll saw s (E), see Exploded View on page 23. These are 1/4"-thick s cut to fit in the rabbets. The first thing to do is choose a pattern (see box) and enlarge it 200% on a photocopier. Then you can temporarily attach the photocopy to the with a spray mount adhesive. Note: If you’re making two s with the same pattern, you can glue them together with the spray adhesive. This way, you’ll only need to cut the pattern one time. Now before the pattern can be cut out, you’ll need to drill holes for blade access. (I drilled 1/16"-dia. holes in all the openings.) Then the waste sections can be cut away on the scroll

6

a.

a.

Woodsmith

No. 126

saw. To avoid weakening the s, it’s best to start with the smaller sections and save the larger ones for last. QUARTER ROUND. To hold the scroll saw in the frame, I added small pieces of quarter round (F). To make these safely, I start with an oversized blank, routing a 1/4" roundover on each edge, see Fig. 7. Cutting the quarter round from the blank is a two-step process. First, I cut two kerfs on each edge with the fence set 1/4" from the blade, see Fig. 8. Second, the quarter round can be cut from the blank. However, you don’t want to trap the small quarter round between the fence and the blade. So this time, reposition the fence so the quarter round falls to the waste side of the blade, see Fig. 9. Finally, the quarter round can be

a.

mitered to fit in the frame, see Exploded View. Then the pieces can be glued into the frame behind the scroll saw . BRASS OPTION. Or for a different look, you can place a piece of 30-gauge

8

7

a.

9

a.

a.

SCROLL SAW PATTERNS

Pineapple No. 126

brass between the scroll saw and the quarter round, see the photo in margin at right and the lower photo on page 20. W

Stag Woodsmith

{ For a unique look, cut a piece of thin (30-gauge) brass to fit behind the scroll saw . For more on working with brass, see page 24.

(Enlarge 200%)

Classic scroll 23

Weekend Project

fretwork Wall Shelf This simple, yet attractive, project is a great opportunity to spend some time building your skills at the scroll saw. Materials, Supplies, & Cutting Diagram A Frame Rails (2) B Frame Stiles (2) C D E F

34

Top/Btm. Mirror Stops (2) Side Mirror Stops (2) Shelves (2) Uprights (2)

3

⁄4 x 1 - 183 ⁄4 3 ⁄4 x 7⁄8 - 61⁄2 1 ⁄4 x 1⁄4 -171⁄2 1 ⁄4 x 1⁄4 - 6 1 ⁄2 x 51⁄2 - 20 3 ⁄4 x 3 ⁄4 - 17

1 ⁄4 x 41⁄8 - 4 G Small Fretwork (8) 1 H Large Fretwork (2) ⁄4 x 41⁄8 - 8 3 3 • (1) 6 ⁄8" x 17 ⁄8" Beveled Mirror • (2) Keyhole Hangers • (4) #8 x 11⁄2" Fh Woodscrews • (20) 18-ga. x 3 ⁄4" Brads

Woodsmith

Sometimes, it’s nice to take a break from the typical woodworking routine and do something different. And this scroll saw project does just that. The intricate cuts and change of pace can be very relaxing. But, you also want to end up with something you can be proud of — something a little out of the ordinary that can be displayed. The shelf you see here fits the bill in every way. It’s simply a mirrored frame wrapped with a pair of shelves and uprights. Of course, what really makes this project stand out is the fretwork. It may look daunting at first, but you’ll find out that cutting fretwork doesn’t take much time, and it’s simple to create decorative motifs. The procedure and patterns used for making it are shown on page 37. No. 173

TOP MIRROR STOP C

building the

A

17!/2

FRAME RAIL 1 18#/4

FRAME

6

D

D

SIDE MIRROR STOP

6!/2 Beveled Mirror

I began building this wall shelf by starting at the center — the mirrored frame — and working my way out. As the main drawing shows, it’s a beveled mirror surrounded by a simple rail-andstile frame. And I’ve found it’s easier to add the shelf to the mirror (or frame) than it is to fit the frame into an already-built shelf. It’s also a good idea to have the mirror on hand before starting. Then you can size the parts so they fit around the mirror with just a slight (1⁄16") gap. THE FRAME. Building the frame is fairly easy. If you look closely at detail ‘a,’ you’ll notice notches, rabbets, and stub tenon and groove ery. It may look complicated at first, but don’t worry. The box below shows the step-by-step method I used to make these cuts. But there are a couple of details I’d like to mention about the process. SETTING UP. After cutting the frame pieces to size, you can set up your table saw to cut the rabbets that will hold the mirror (detail ‘b’). To cut these, I buried a dado blade in an auxiliary fence attached to the saw’s rip fence. This protects the rip fence from the blade when

C

6#/8

BOTTOM MIRROR STOP

B

NOTE: Frame rails and stiles are #/4" thick. Mirror stops are !/4" thick

17#/8 B

#/4

a.

FRAME STILE

A

!/4

b. !/8 !/4

A

SIDE SECTION VIEW

A

!/4

!/8

!/4

18-ga. x #/4" brad

Mirror

&/8 NOTE: Cut tongues on sides of frame after assembly

!/2 !/4

!/4

B

C

fit into grooves in the uprights that you’ll cut later on. It’s easier to cut these tongues after the frame is built than to cut tongues in the individual pieces and try to line them all up later. One last point: The drawing above shows how the mirror is held in place with stops. To prevent damage to the mirror while you’re working with the other parts of the shelf, it’s a good idea to install the mirror after the rest of the shelf is assembled.

you have the two so close together. And it also allows you to tweak the width of the cut by adjusting the fence, rather than the dado blade. NOTCHES. The next step is to create notches in the stiles to fit the rabbets in the rails (see detail ‘a’). When that’s done, glue and clamp the frame together, then compare the diagonal measurements. When they match, the frame is square. TONGUES. Once the glue dries, you can cut the tongues along the sides of the frame. These tongues will

How-To: Frame ery Aux. fence

A

B

B

a.

END VIEW

!/4 Dado blade

A

Aux. fence

a.

Dado blade

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a. Aux. fence

Dado blade !/4

Second, Notches. Adjust the dado blade and fence to cut notches in the ends of the stiles to hold the rails. Woodsmith

Mirror frame

B

!/4

!/2

First, Rabbets. Once the auxiliary fence is in place, cut the rabbets that will hold the mirror in the frame rails and stiles.

END VIEW

Aux. fence

B

Aux. fence

Aux. fence

Aux. fence

Cut tongue on mirror frame stile edges only

END VIEW !/8 Frame !/4

Third, Tongues. Cutting the tongues after the frame is built ensures alignment and consistency in the finished cut. 35

4!/8

G

SMALL FRETWORK G S

18-ga. x #/4" brads

4!/8

F

a.

Shelf corner is 4 notched to fit around upright

Keyhole hanger with screws

4

5!/2 E

4!/4

SHELF

5

20

4!/8 Mirror frame tongue fits into groove in upright

#8 x 1!/2" Fh woodscrew

H

LARGE FRETWORK 8

b.

Shelf front and side edges have !/8" roundover

17 H F

E

UPRIGHT

SHELF

G

G

4!/4

G

c.

NOTE: Shelves are made from !/2"-thick hardwood and uprights are made from #/4"-thick hardwood. Fretwork is resawn from #/4"-thick hardwood and planed to !/4"

G

adding the SHELVES & FRETWORK With the frame complete, you can focus on adding the uprights, shelves, and the fretwork. THE UPRIGHTS. Each upright has a pair of grooves in the front and inside edges, as you can see in detail ‘a’ above. The mirrored frame will fit in the inside grooves, while the fretwork will fill in the rest of the grooves.

How-To: Shelf Details Tall aux. miter fence

Next, you can drill holes for the screws that will attach the shelves and make mortises for the keyhole hangers (detail ‘b’). You’ll find a detailed procedure for installing keyhole hangers in Woodsmith No. 172, page 33. Then, you can start making the shelves. THE SHELVES. The box below shows how I shaped the shelves. Each shelf

a. E

5

String

5!/2

Workpiece

Clamp END VIEW

Aux. fence

#/4 Aux. fence

E

String holds hardboard to desired arc

#/4

Cutting the Shelf Notches. A tall auxiliary fence attached to the miter gauge will the shelves while cutting the corner notches. 36

E E

E

SHELF

a.

Dado blade

Pre-drill pilot hole for brads. See pg. 33 for more information

Marking the Curve. Using a “bow” made from a piece of hardboard and string, trace a curve on each shelf. Woodsmith

H

is notched to hold the uprights. Then, after cutting a gentle curve into the front edge of the shelves, I rounded over all the edges. THE FRETWORK. With the main pieces of the wall shelf completed, you can move on to the fretwork. For more details on cutting the fretwork, see the following page. ASSEMBLY. Since the mirrored frame determines where the other pieces go, you’ll want to center it on the uprights first. Next, the shelves are glued to the frame. And, finally, the uprights are attached to the shelf notches with screws. To attach the fretwork, you can just run a bead of glue inside the upright grooves and gently press the fretwork in place. But you’ll need to tack it to the shelves with small brads (detail ‘c’). For more information on installing the brads, see Shop Notebook on page 32. All that’s left to do is apply the brown mahogany stain and lacquer finish, install the mirror, and hang the shelf in your home. W No. 173

How-To: Cut Fretwork The fretwork adds the perfect touch to this wall shelf. But before you sit down at your scroll saw, there’s a little preparation to be done. PREPARING THE WORKPIECES. The first step is to size the workpieces. Instead of planing thick stock down to 1⁄4", I decided to resaw the stock to the proper thickness. After planing the resawn stock smooth, I cut the pieces to finished size and mounted copies of the patterns you see on the far right to the blanks with spray adhesive. PREPARING THE SCROLL SAW. Now that the workpieces are ready, make sure your scroll saw is too. First, it’s important to have the right blade. For fretwork, I generally use a No. 5 reverse tooth blade and tension it so it will only flex 1⁄ " under finger pressure. Then 8 square the table to the blade. Now you’re ready to cut the fretwork. But the place to start is actually at the drill press. STARTER HOLES. Because the fretwork involves mostly inside cuts, drilling starter holes will allow you to feed the blade through the workpiece to make those cuts. With fretwork, what takes getting used to is rotating the as you work. To make this easier, I drill holes near sharp turns (Fig. 1). It’s easier to rotate the workpiece inside a hole than in a kerf. MAKING THE CUTS. After the holes are drilled, you can begin cutting. There’s no set sequence, but I like to make the smaller cuts first. Cutting out the large areas first can weaken the workpiece and may cause it to break when cutting the smaller areas. REMOVING WASTE. It’s easier to remove the waste in small pieces, rather than all at once. For example, I’ll cut sharp corners in two or three steps (Fig. 3). For other corners, the trick when rotating the is to push the workpiece against the sides and back of the blade (the edges that don’t cut.) www.Woodsmith.com

!/8"-dia. twist bit

1 Drill !/8" starter holes at outside corner locations of fretwork pattern

Waste NOTE: Attach pattern to blank with spray adhesive

SMALL FRETWORK

Starter Holes. After mounting the pattern on the workpiece, drill starter holes to feed the scroll saw blade through.

2

FIRST: Begin cut from starter hole

1

SECOND: Reposition workpiece to relocate blade at starter hole and start cut in other direction

For full-size fretwork patterns, go to: Woodsmith.com

2

LARGE FRETWORK

Connect the Holes. By drilling holes at turning points, it’s easier to rotate the workpiece and stay close to the layout lines.

FRETWORK PATTERNS. Enlarge the patterns 200% and attach them to the workpieces with spray adhesive.

3 SECOND: Back out of cut and loop around from the other side

THIRD: Spin THIRD:workpiece Reverse direction toto around continue continue cutting removing out from the waste corner

6 Removing Waste. With intricate designs, it’s much simpler to cut away the waste in small pieces, rather than one large cut. Woodsmith

Making several cuts from different directions in the pattern will leave sharp, crisp corners and edges. 37